Chau Say Tevoda , The Twin Temple

Overview

Chau Say Tevoda is a charming mid-12th century Hindu temple that stands on the south side of the ancient road leading east from the Victory Gate of Angkor Thom, directly facing its near-twin Thommanon across the way. Together, these two temples form one of the most appealing pairs in the Angkor Archaeological Park, offering visitors a rare opportunity to compare two closely related works of Khmer architecture built during the height of the Angkor Wat period. While Thommanon has long been well-known thanks to its earlier French restoration, Chau Say Tevoda has undergone its own remarkable transformation through an extensive Chinese conservation project that has restored much of its former elegance.

The temple's name, Chau Say Tevoda, is relatively modern and its meaning is debated. Some scholars interpret it as referring to a historical figure, while others suggest it derives from Khmer words relating to divinity. What is clear from the temple's architectural style, iconography, and decorative program is that it was built during the reign of Suryavarman II or shortly thereafter, placing its construction in the mid-12th century, roughly contemporary with the final phases of Angkor Wat's construction. The temple was dedicated to Hindu worship, with carvings depicting both Vishnu and Shiva among its decorative elements.

Before its restoration, Chau Say Tevoda was in considerably worse condition than Thommanon. Centuries of neglect, the encroachment of jungle vegetation, and the inherent challenges of its lower-lying position (which made it more susceptible to water damage and soil instability) had left the temple in a state of partial collapse. The Chinese government-funded restoration project, which began in the early 2000s and took nearly a decade to complete, was one of the most significant international conservation efforts at Angkor. The team used a combination of traditional anastylosis methods and modern engineering techniques to reassemble the temple's scattered stones and stabilize its foundations.

What to See

• The Raised Causeway: One of Chau Say Tevoda's most distinctive features is the raised causeway (or elevated walkway) that extends eastward from the temple toward the Siem Reap River. This causeway, supported by low walls and punctuated by small cruciform terraces, would have served as a ceremonial approach to the temple from the east. It is longer and more elaborate than the approach at Thommanon, and walking along it provides a wonderful sense of the processional experience that ancient worshippers would have had when approaching the sacred precinct.
• Carved Pediments and Lintels: Like its twin Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda features beautifully carved decorative elements, though the style shows subtle differences that reveal the hands of different sculptors. The pediments depict scenes from Hindu mythology, including episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as images of Vishnu and Shiva. Several of the lintels feature the characteristic Angkor Wat-period design of a central deity figure surrounded by elaborate scrolling foliage, kala (monster face) motifs, and attendant figures.
• The Devatas: Chau Say Tevoda's devatas (carved female divinities) are a highlight of the temple, though they differ in certain details from those at Thommanon. The figures display the characteristic Angkor Wat-period style of elaborate hairstyles, draped garments, and ornate jewelry, but with their own distinctive proportions and facial expressions. Comparing the devatas at both temples is a fascinating exercise in observing artistic variation within a shared tradition.
• The Central Sanctuary: The main tower (prasat) of Chau Say Tevoda has been substantially restored and gives a clear impression of the temple's original form. The sanctuary opens to the east and would have housed the principal deity image, likely a representation of Vishnu or Shiva. The tower's exterior features false doors on three sides, each decorated with carved motifs, and niches containing devata figures.
• The Libraries: Two library buildings flank the main approach within the temple enclosure. These small structures feature their own carved pediments and lintels and are characteristic of the Angkor Wat-period temple plan. The southern library is the better preserved of the two and retains some fine decorative carving.
• The Chinese Restoration: The restoration work itself is worth noting as you walk through the temple. Careful observers can distinguish between the original weathered sandstone blocks and the newer replacement stones used to fill gaps where original material was missing. The restoration was carried out with great sensitivity and has been widely praised by conservation professionals. Information panels near the temple explain the restoration process and methods used.

Architecture & Conservation

Chau Say Tevoda follows the classic Angkor Wat-period temple plan, with a central sanctuary connected by a mandapa to an entrance gopura, flanked by library buildings within an enclosure wall. The temple faces east, with the raised causeway extending in that direction. The overall plan is slightly more complex than Thommanon's, with additional connecting structures and a more elaborate causeway, suggesting that Chau Say Tevoda may have been the more important of the two temples, despite its later state of greater ruin.

The Chinese conservation team, working under the auspices of a bilateral agreement between China and Cambodia, employed state-of-the-art documentation techniques including photogrammetry and 3D scanning to map every stone before dismantling and rebuilding sections of the temple. The project involved training Cambodian conservation specialists alongside the Chinese team, contributing to local capacity building in heritage preservation. The restoration of Chau Say Tevoda stands as a model of successful international cooperation in cultural heritage conservation and has been recognized by UNESCO as an exemplary project.

The temple's sandstone construction is typical of the Angkor Wat period, with blocks cut from the quarries at Phnom Kulen and transported to the Angkor plain via an elaborate network of canals and waterways. The stone was assembled without mortar, relying instead on precise fitting and the weight of the blocks themselves to maintain structural integrity. Over time, water infiltration, root growth from vegetation, and seismic activity caused many of the joints to fail, leading to the partial collapse that made restoration necessary.

Chau Say Tevoda and Thommanon: A Comparison

Visiting Chau Say Tevoda and Thommanon together is one of the great pleasures of the Small Circuit route, offering a natural lesson in Khmer architectural variation. While the two temples share the same general period, style, and religious dedication, they differ in several significant ways. Chau Say Tevoda is slightly larger and has a more complex plan, with its elaborate raised causeway being a feature that Thommanon lacks. The decorative carving at Thommanon is generally considered to be of slightly higher quality, with more refined devatas and more deeply cut lintels, though this difference may partly reflect the different states of preservation and restoration rather than the original artistic intent.

The two temples also illustrate the different approaches of their respective restoration teams. The French EFEO restoration of Thommanon in the 1960s followed the conventions of that era, while the Chinese restoration of Chau Say Tevoda, carried out decades later, benefited from advances in conservation science and technology. Together, the two projects offer an interesting case study in the evolution of heritage conservation philosophy and practice.

Tips for Visiting

• Allow 20 to 30 minutes: Chau Say Tevoda is compact and can be explored thoroughly in a short visit. Combined with Thommanon across the road, budget about 45 minutes to an hour for both temples.
• Start with Thommanon, then cross: Most visitors find it natural to visit Thommanon first (on the north side of the road) and then walk across to Chau Say Tevoda, as the two experiences complement each other beautifully.
• Walk the causeway: Do not skip the raised eastern causeway, which is one of Chau Say Tevoda's most distinctive features and gives a wonderful sense of the temple's original ceremonial approach.
• Look for restoration details: Pay attention to the contrast between original and replacement stones, and read the information panels about the Chinese restoration project. Understanding the conservation effort enriches the visit considerably.
• Quieter than nearby sites: Like Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda is often bypassed by large tour groups heading between Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm, making it a peaceful spot for reflection and photography.

How to Get There from Villa Agati

Chau Say Tevoda is approximately 10 kilometers from Villa Agati, a 20 to 25-minute tuk-tuk ride. It sits directly on the Small Circuit road, just south of the Victory Gate of Angkor Thom, making it an effortless addition to any standard temple tour. The temple is typically visited alongside Thommanon, Ta Keo, and Ta Prohm as part of the eastern leg of the Small Circuit.

Villa Agati's tuk-tuk drivers can drop you at either Thommanon or Chau Say Tevoda first and wait while you explore both temples before continuing to the next stop on your itinerary. An Angkor Pass is required for entry to the park.