Overview
Phimeanakas, whose name derives from the Sanskrit "Vimana-akasha" meaning "Celestial Palace" or "Palace in the Sky," is a three-tiered pyramid temple located within the walled enclosure of the Royal Palace compound in Angkor Thom. Though modest in size compared to the grand temples nearby, Phimeanakas holds a unique place in Angkor's history as the personal temple of the Khmer kings and the setting for one of the most captivating legends of the ancient world.
The temple was originally constructed in the late 10th century, likely during the reign of King Rajendravarman (944-968 AD), and was substantially modified by King Suryavarman I in the early 11th century. It served as the chapel royal within the larger Royal Palace complex, a vast compound enclosed by high laterite walls measuring approximately 600 by 250 meters. While the wooden palace buildings that once surrounded Phimeanakas have long since disappeared, the stone temple endures as a testament to the intimate spiritual life of the Khmer monarchy.
The most famous account of Phimeanakas comes from the Chinese envoy Zhou Daguan, who visited the Khmer court in 1296. He described a golden tower within the palace where the king was obliged to sleep each night with a nine-headed serpent spirit (naga) who appeared to him in the form of a woman. According to Zhou Daguan's account, if the spirit failed to appear even one night, it meant the king's death was imminent. If the king missed a single night's visit to the tower, disaster would befall the kingdom. This legend reflects the deep connection between the Khmer monarchy and the mythical naga beings that pervade Cambodian spirituality.
The Royal Palace compound surrounding Phimeanakas was the political heart of the Khmer Empire for centuries. Within its walls, the king held audiences, conducted religious ceremonies, and administered an empire that at its peak stretched across much of mainland Southeast Asia. The compound included not only the temple and palace buildings but also ornamental gardens, bathing pools, and ceremonial spaces that reflected the splendor of the Khmer court.
What to See
While Phimeanakas is smaller and less ornate than many other Angkor temples, its historical significance and atmospheric setting within the overgrown Royal Palace compound make it a rewarding visit for those interested in the personal world of the Khmer kings.
- The Three-Tiered Pyramid: Phimeanakas rises in three tiers to a height of approximately 12 meters. The base measures about 35 by 28 meters, and each tier is smaller than the one below, creating the classic stepped pyramid form. The steep stairways on each side lead to the summit, where the foundations of a small gallery or sanctuary once stood. This is believed to be the site of the legendary golden tower described by Zhou Daguan.
- The Summit Platform: Climbing to the top of Phimeanakas provides a vantage point over the Royal Palace grounds. The remains of a gallery that once enclosed the summit platform are visible, along with traces of sandstone decoration. From here, you can survey the surrounding forest and imagine the vanished wooden palace buildings that once filled this enclosed precinct.
- The Royal Bathing Pools: To the north of Phimeanakas lie two large rectangular pools, known as the Royal Baths or Srah Srei and Srah Srang (not to be confused with the larger Srah Srang near Banteay Kdei). These pools were used by the royal women for bathing and are bordered by sculpted nagas and sandstone terraces. The pools retain water during the rainy season and are surrounded by atmospheric forest, making them a peaceful discovery.
- The Palace Enclosure Walls: The laterite walls that enclose the Royal Palace compound are still largely intact and give visitors a sense of the precinct's impressive scale. The walls are punctuated by gopura entrance towers, the most prominent being on the eastern side, which once served as the main ceremonial entrance.
- The Surrounding Forest: The Royal Palace compound is now largely overtaken by forest, creating a hauntingly beautiful atmosphere. Walking among the trees, you can discover scattered carved stones, fallen lintels, and other architectural fragments that hint at the compound's former magnificence. This overgrown character gives Phimeanakas a meditative quality absent from more heavily restored monuments.
Architecture
Phimeanakas represents a transitional period in Khmer architecture, bridging the pre-Angkorian pyramid temples and the later, more elaborate mountain-temples like Angkor Wat. The temple's form is straightforward: a three-tiered laterite pyramid with sandstone cladding, oriented to the east. The proportions are compact and sturdy, reflecting its function as a personal royal chapel rather than a grand state temple.
The pyramid's construction uses laterite blocks for the core structure, with sandstone employed for the decorative elements, stairways, and the gallery at the summit. The sandstone carvings, while less elaborate than those at contemporary temples like Banteay Srei, include decorative lintels and guardian figures at the doorways. Some scholars believe the summit was originally crowned with a golden spire or finial, which would have been the "golden tower" described in Zhou Daguan's account.
The temple sits within the broader Royal Palace compound, which was itself a carefully planned complex. The compound's orientation, with its main axis aligned east-west, follows standard Khmer principles of sacred geometry. The placement of the bathing pools, the relationship between the temple and the palace buildings, and the positioning of entrance gopuras all reflect the sophisticated urban planning that characterized Khmer royal architecture.
Archaeological evidence suggests that the surrounding palace buildings were constructed of wood and other perishable materials, a common practice for secular structures in the Khmer Empire. Only religious buildings were constructed in stone, which was considered the material of the gods. This explains why the temple survives while the far larger palace has completely vanished, leaving only the stone foundations and enclosure walls as evidence of its existence.
Tips for Visiting
- Combine with Baphuon and the terraces: Phimeanakas is located between Baphuon to the south and the Terrace of the Elephants to the east. Walking between these three sites takes only minutes and allows you to appreciate the spatial relationship of the Royal Palace to the ceremonial terraces.
- Climb to the summit: The stairs are steep but manageable. The view from the top, though not the highest in Angkor, provides a unique perspective over the Royal Palace grounds.
- Explore the bathing pools: Don't miss the royal pools to the north. They are often overlooked by visitors but offer a peaceful and atmospheric stop, especially in the afternoon light.
- Allow 30-45 minutes: Including time to climb the pyramid, explore the pools, and wander the palace grounds.
- Fewer crowds: Phimeanakas receives far fewer visitors than nearby Bayon or the terraces, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a quieter experience within Angkor Thom.
- Wear sturdy shoes: The paths through the Royal Palace compound are uneven, with tree roots and scattered stones throughout the forested areas.
How to Get There from Villa Agati
Phimeanakas is located within the Angkor Thom walled city, approximately 10 kilometers from Villa Agati. After entering through the South Gate (about 20 minutes by tuk-tuk), it is a short drive north past Bayon and Baphuon to reach the Royal Palace compound. The temple is typically visited as part of the Small Circuit itinerary, which covers the major monuments within and around Angkor Thom.
Villa Agati can arrange temple tours that include Phimeanakas along with the other monuments of Angkor Thom. A guide is particularly valuable here, as they can bring the legend of the golden tower and the naga princess to life and point out architectural details that might otherwise be missed. An Angkor Pass is required for entry to the Angkor Archaeological Park.