Overview
The Roluos Group is where the story of Angkor truly begins. Located 13 kilometers east of Siem Reap , and southeast of the main Angkor complex , this cluster of three temples represents the earliest permanent capital of the Khmer Empire, known in ancient times as Hariharalaya. It was here, in the late 9th century, that King Indravarman I established the architectural, religious, and hydraulic foundations that would define Khmer civilization for the next four centuries. Every great temple at Angkor , from Phnom Bakheng to Angkor Wat , traces its lineage back to the innovations first realized at Roluos.
The three temples of the Roluos Group , Preah Ko, Bakong, and Lolei , were built within a span of about 14 years, between approximately 879 and 893 AD. Together they represent a complete royal religious program: ancestral worship (Preah Ko), the state temple mountain (Bakong), and the continuation of that program by the next king (Lolei). Visiting them in chronological order provides a vivid narrative of how Khmer temple architecture evolved from relatively modest brick towers to the first true sandstone pyramid temple.
Despite their foundational importance, the Roluos temples receive far fewer visitors than the main Angkor sites, making them a peaceful and uncrowded alternative for those who have already seen the big three. The drive from Siem Reap passes through a landscape of rice paddies, sugar palms, and traditional Khmer villages, providing an authentic glimpse of rural Cambodian life that contrasts beautifully with the ancient monuments at the journey's end.
Preah Ko (879 AD)
Preah Ko , meaning "Sacred Bull" , is the oldest of the three Roluos temples and one of the oldest surviving Khmer temples of the Angkor period. It was built by King Indravarman I in 879 AD and dedicated to his ancestors, both male and female. The temple consists of six brick towers arranged in two rows of three on a low platform. The front three towers, which are slightly larger, were dedicated to male ancestors and to Shiva; the back three were dedicated to their consorts.
The temple takes its name from the three statues of Nandi , Shiva's sacred bull , that stand before the towers. These stone bulls, kneeling in calm devotion, are among the most charming sculptures at Angkor and set the tone for the gentle, intimate character of this temple. The six towers retain significant traces of their original decorative stucco, which once covered the brick surfaces with intricate scenes of Hindu mythology, celestial beings, and elaborate floral patterns. The remnants that survive , particularly on the rear towers , are among the best-preserved examples of Khmer stucco art anywhere.
The sandstone lintels above the doorways are exceptionally fine, depicting scenes of Vishnu, Shiva, and other deities in the early Preah Ko style, characterized by bold, deeply cut compositions with prominent makara arches and pendant garlands. Art historians consider these lintels to be masterworks of 9th-century Khmer art, and they reward close examination with binoculars or a zoom lens.
Bakong (881 AD)
Bakong is the crown jewel of the Roluos Group and one of the most important temples in the entire history of Khmer architecture. Built by Indravarman I in 881 AD as his state temple, it is the first true "temple mountain" , a stepped pyramid built of sandstone, representing Mount Meru as the cosmic center of the universe. Every subsequent temple mountain at Angkor, from Phnom Bakheng to the Baphuon to Angkor Wat itself, follows the model that Bakong established.
The temple rises in five sandstone tiers, each level surrounded by stone elephants at the corners and naga balustrades along the stairways. The pyramid is encircled by a broad moat, symbolizing the cosmic ocean that surrounds Mount Meru in Hindu cosmology. Eight brick towers stand on the lower levels, while the central sanctuary , a later addition, probably dating to the 12th century , crowns the summit in a style reminiscent of Angkor Wat. The view from the top encompasses the Roluos plain and surrounding countryside, a serene panorama that has barely changed in a thousand years.
Bakong's significance extends beyond architecture. Its construction required the quarrying, transportation, and precise placement of tens of thousands of sandstone blocks , the first major use of sandstone as a primary building material in Khmer temple construction. Previous temples had used brick, with sandstone reserved for decorative elements. The shift to sandstone at Bakong enabled the much larger and more elaborate structures that would follow in subsequent centuries and fundamentally changed the trajectory of Khmer architecture.
Lolei (893 AD)
Lolei is the youngest of the three Roluos temples, built by Yasovarman I in 893 AD , the same king who would later move the capital to Angkor and build Phnom Bakheng. Lolei was dedicated to Yasovarman I's parents and maternal grandparents, continuing the ancestral worship tradition established at Preah Ko. The temple originally stood on an island in the center of the Indratataka baray , a massive reservoir built by Indravarman I that measured approximately 3,800 by 800 meters. The baray is now dry, and Lolei sits on slightly raised ground in the middle of a village, but imagining the temple reflected in the waters of the great reservoir adds a powerful dimension to the visit.
Lolei consists of four brick towers on a laterite platform, arranged in two rows of two. Like Preah Ko, the towers retain excellent examples of carved stucco decoration and fine sandstone lintels. The inscriptions at Lolei are particularly important to historians because they record detailed administrative information about the temple's operation, including the names and duties of the priests, the quantities of food and supplies required for daily rituals, and the villages assigned to support the temple , a rare window into the practical mechanics of Khmer religious institutions.
A modern Buddhist monastery (wat) has been built on the grounds around Lolei, and the juxtaposition of the ancient Hindu towers with the colorful contemporary pagoda and the daily life of resident monks creates an appealing layering of Cambodia's religious history. The monks are generally welcoming to visitors, and the peaceful atmosphere of the wat grounds adds to the experience.
Tips for Visiting
- Visit in the morning: The Roluos Group is east of Siem Reap, so morning light is excellent for photography, particularly at Bakong where the eastern approach is the most dramatic. Plan to arrive by 8:00 AM for the best conditions.
- Visit all three temples: The three temples are within a few kilometers of each other and complement each other perfectly. Visit Preah Ko first (oldest), then Bakong (the pyramid), then Lolei (the island temple) for a chronological understanding of early Angkor.
- Allow 1.5 to 2 hours: With three temples to visit and short drives between them, plan for at least 90 minutes to do the group justice. Bakong alone deserves 30 to 45 minutes for a proper exploration including climbing the pyramid.
- Combine with an afternoon at the main complex: The Roluos Group makes an excellent morning trip before heading to the main Angkor temples in the afternoon. This chronological approach , starting with the oldest temples , gives you an appreciation for how Khmer architecture evolved.
- Very few crowds: The Roluos Group is one of the least visited temple areas on the standard Angkor Pass. You will likely have Preah Ko and Lolei almost entirely to yourself, and even Bakong sees only a handful of visitors most mornings.
How to Get There from Villa Agati
The Roluos Group is located approximately 13 kilometers east of Siem Reap, about 25 to 30 minutes from Villa Agati by tuk-tuk. The road is flat and paved, passing through attractive countryside. Villa Agati can arrange a half-morning tuk-tuk excursion covering all three temples, with your driver moving between the sites while you explore.
We recommend departing Villa Agati by 7:30 AM and returning by 10:00 or 10:30 AM, leaving the rest of the day free for the main Angkor complex or for relaxing by our saltwater pool. An Angkor Pass is required for entry to all three Roluos temples.