Ta Som , Face in the Fig Tree

Overview

Ta Som is a small but wonderfully atmospheric Buddhist temple located on the Grand Circuit route in the northeastern corner of the Angkor Archaeological Park. Built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century, Ta Som shares many characteristics with the king's other temple foundations , face towers at the entrance gopuras, Buddhist iconography, Bayon-style architecture, and the characteristic signs of the ambitious but sometimes hurried construction that marked Jayavarman VII's prolific building campaign. What distinguishes Ta Som from its larger siblings is its intimate scale, its tranquil atmosphere, and one of the most photographed sights in all of Angkor: the eastern gopura, whose face tower has been completely engulfed by the roots of a massive strangler fig tree.

The temple was likely dedicated to Jayavarman VII's father, Dharanindravarman II, as part of the king's comprehensive program of building temples to honor his parents and ancestors. This connection to the royal family gives Ta Som a personal significance within the broader narrative of Jayavarman VII's reign, complementing the temples he built for his mother (Ta Prohm), his guru (Preah Khan), and the kingdom as a whole (the Bayon). Together, these temples form a network of interconnected sacred sites that expressed Jayavarman VII's vision of a Buddhist kingdom where religious devotion, family piety, and political power were seamlessly interwoven.

Despite its modest size, Ta Som is one of the most pleasant temples to visit in the Angkor complex. Because it lies at the eastern end of the Grand Circuit, far from the main concentration of temples around Angkor Thom, it receives relatively few visitors compared to the big-name sites. On a quiet morning or late afternoon, you may find yourself exploring Ta Som's corridors and galleries in near-solitude, accompanied only by birdsong and the rustle of leaves in the surrounding trees. This sense of peaceful discovery is one of the great rewards of venturing beyond the most popular temples.

What to See

• The Eastern Gopura and Strangler Fig: This is Ta Som's signature feature and one of the most iconic photo opportunities in Cambodia. The eastern entrance gopura features a Bayon-style face tower , a stone tower carved with four serene faces looking in the cardinal directions , that has been completely enveloped by the roots of an enormous strangler fig tree (Ficus). The tree's roots cascade down over and around the stone faces, creating an extraordinary fusion of nature and architecture that perfectly captures the romantic, jungle-reclaiming-civilization aesthetic that draws so many visitors to Angkor. The roots have not destroyed the face tower but rather seem to cradle it, and the stone faces peer out from within the living wood with an expression that appears even more mysterious and timeless framed by the organic growth.
• The Western Gopura Face Tower: The western entrance to Ta Som also features a face tower, though this one is much better preserved and largely free of vegetation. The contrast between the two gopuras , one consumed by nature, the other standing clear , provides a dramatic illustration of the different fates that befell Angkor's monuments depending on the specific conditions of their environment. The western face tower retains fine detail in its carved features and offers good photographic opportunities, especially in the late afternoon light.
• The Central Sanctuary: Ta Som's central tower, while relatively small, retains elements of its original carved decoration, including devata figures and decorative motifs characteristic of the Bayon period. The sanctuary was designed to house Buddhist images, though these were later destroyed or removed during the Hindu reaction under Jayavarman VIII. The intimate scale of the central area gives it a chapel-like quality that contrasts pleasantly with the vast, sometimes overwhelming interiors of larger temples.
• Atmospheric Corridors and Galleries: The temple's connecting galleries and corridors, though modest in scale, feature atmospheric combinations of carved stone walls, partial roof collapses that admit shafts of jungle-filtered light, and small trees growing from the upper stonework. These passages offer wonderful opportunities for photography and quiet contemplation, especially in the morning when the light angles create dramatic contrasts between illuminated stone and deep shadow.
• Devata Carvings: Throughout the temple, carved devata figures adorn the walls in the Bayon-period style. While less refined than the devatas at Angkor Wat or Thommanon, they possess their own charm, with rounder faces, simpler headdresses, and a warmth of expression that characterizes the Buddhist art of Jayavarman VII's era. Several of the devatas are particularly well preserved and display clearly visible details of clothing, jewelry, and hairstyle.
• The Surrounding Moat and Forest: Ta Som is surrounded by a partially water-filled moat and dense forest that contribute to the temple's secluded, contemplative atmosphere. The approach from the parking area through the tree-lined path gives visitors a gradual transition from the modern world into the ancient sacred precinct, building anticipation before the temple itself comes into view.

Architecture & Historical Context

Ta Som follows the standard plan of a Bayon-period temple, with concentric enclosures, face-tower gopuras, connecting galleries, and a central sanctuary. The temple is oriented east-west and measures approximately 200 meters by 150 meters within its outer enclosure. The construction is primarily sandstone, with laterite used for the enclosure walls and some structural elements. The relatively modest scale and somewhat rough construction quality reflect the practical realities of Jayavarman VII's building program, in which resources and skilled labor were distributed across a vast number of simultaneous projects.

The temple's layout comprises three concentric enclosures. The outermost enclosure wall is pierced by gopuras at the east and west, both featuring face towers. The middle and inner enclosures contain the temple's galleries, libraries, and the central sanctuary. A cruciform terrace on the eastern approach once served as a ceremonial platform. The inner enclosure is compact, and the entire temple can be explored comfortably within a relatively short visit, yet it offers enough architectural and artistic detail to reward careful attention.

Ta Som's significance within Jayavarman VII's building program extends beyond its individual merits. Together with Preah Khan, Neak Pean, and the other Grand Circuit temples, Ta Som formed part of a comprehensive sacred landscape that the king created in the northern reaches of the Angkor complex. This landscape was centered on the Jayatataka baray and its associated temples, reflecting a vision of Buddhist cosmology made manifest in stone and water. Understanding Ta Som as part of this broader network enriches the experience of visiting it, connecting the small temple to the grand ambitions of one of Southeast Asia's greatest kings.

Tips for Visiting

• Allow 20 to 30 minutes: Ta Som is compact and can be explored thoroughly in a short visit. Most visitors spend the majority of their time at the famous eastern gopura, but do not skip the rest of the temple , the interior corridors and western face tower deserve attention as well.
• Walk through from west to east: Most visitors enter from the western side (where the road and parking area are located) and walk through the temple to reach the famous fig-tree gopura at the eastern end. This creates a wonderful build-up of anticipation, with the dramatic reveal of the engulfed face tower as the climax of your visit.
• Visit early morning or late afternoon: The best light for photographing the eastern gopura falls in the morning, when the sun illuminates the east-facing facade. Late afternoon provides beautiful golden light on the western face tower. Either time also avoids the midday heat and the modest number of visitors the temple does receive.
• Combine with Neak Pean and Preah Khan: Ta Som sits at the eastern end of the Grand Circuit, making it a natural companion to Neak Pean (a short drive to the west) and Preah Khan (further west). Visiting all three in sequence provides a comprehensive tour of Jayavarman VII's northern temples.
• Enjoy the silence: Ta Som's greatest luxury is its peacefulness. Take a moment to sit quietly in one of the corridors and simply absorb the atmosphere , the play of light on stone, the sounds of the forest, the sense of deep time that pervades these ancient walls.

How to Get There from Villa Agati

Ta Som is approximately 18 kilometers from Villa Agati, a 40 to 45-minute tuk-tuk ride. The temple is located at the eastern end of the Grand Circuit route, east of Neak Pean. It is a standard stop on Grand Circuit tours and is typically visited as part of a full day that includes Preah Khan, Neak Pean, East Mebon, and Pre Rup.

Villa Agati's tuk-tuk drivers are experienced with the Grand Circuit route and can plan your day to avoid the hottest hours and the largest crowds at each site. An Angkor Pass is required for entry to the park.